Befreiungskriege 1813-14

Painting and modelling 28mm Napoleonic wargaming miniatures

The Perry experiment, part 3

Posted by Martin on October 26, 2008

Perry horse latest WIP from three angles.

Perry horse latest WIP from three angles.

It’s been over three weeks since I updated progress on the test painting of a Perry figure. For most of that time, nothing noteworthy happened other than me chewing over the result of using the Foundry wine stain red triad. I’ve been looking at plates in various reference books and I spent some time studying photographs on a 14th cuirassiers re-enanctors site. The conclusion: the Foundry colours are too pink and not maroon enough. So that’s been redone with only the darkest shade of the triad surviving the cut. Vallejo old favourites of hull red, red and (sparingly) scarlet have stepped into the breach.

I’ve also finished off almost all of the saddle furniture, including two attempts to get a result I was satisfied with for the sheepskin shabraque. The other big area of progress is that all of the horse’s black coat is painted and highlighted. So now there are only a few details left to resolve – rear hooves, reins, straps and the blanket roll under the sheepskin shabraque. The final jobs will be the regimental number on the valise ends and the grenade insignia on the saddlecloth. I’m currently considering two approaches to these devilish tasks: one is to take a deep breath and pick up a fine paintbrush for a freehand job; the other is to avail myself of the kind offer of a chap in Oregon called Harry to make me some decals for the job.

What do you think so far? And would it be cheating to use some decals?

4 Responses to “The Perry experiment, part 3”

  1. seansdaddy said

    Hi Martin love the horses mate, agree with your choice of using the vallejo colours,foundry reds are way to pinky for me,


  2. Harry B Houchins said

    No such thing as “cheating” in painting…

  3. Randy said

    Is the use of decals cheating? If you’re a purist then of course it’s cheating. If you’re a realist then the question is moot, use whatever means you need to achieve the level of detail desired.

    You paint beautifully, the blue on the saddlecloth is nicely shaded. So when you use those decals how do you plan to blend them in. COnsidering the placement of the grenade insignia you’re going to be placing the bottom in a mainly light area. Most of the flames will be in the adjacent darker blue with the tops of same extending onto the next ‘roll’ of lighter blue. If it were me I suppose I’d be trying a very dilute dark blue wash to blend it all together.

    Are you sure you’re looking at the right place for decal use? Turnbacks would be my first choice. Various types needed: hunting horns, grenades, and diamonds would be a good start and oh yeah imperial eagles. And don’t forget the cartridge box insignia.

    As for the regiment number I think you’re spot on. The drawings I use (long list) almost invariably show cavalry isignia as neatly done. Not so with line foot sloggers shako covers. Better off hand doing it and not so very neatly either.

    Seriously, do you expect to save anytime decaling the saddlecloth. By the time you cut them out, diosol them on and dioset them you coulda painted them? Don’t get me wrong, it’s a great idea for the more complex insignia, ‘specially if it’s crowned [my own personal demon].

    BTW you have be rethinking how I paint sheepskin. I’ve been using white with a grey offset. The reason is it’s dry and dusty here in SoCal when the sheep graze through. They’ve already been sheared so the wools is short and dusty grey. But checking some animal shots I took earlier this year in Oregon [primarily horses] I did find sheep there have a creamy yellow hue to them.


  4. Frank Catinella said

    The horses look great. I look forward to seeing them with the riders. I have just finished twelve Prussian Hussars and whilst the end result looks v. good, I could have painted three battalions of infantry in the time it took. who said cavalry were a luxury.

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